plug for bullet drop through hole in base of progressive reloader

[Manuel]

I have a Star progressive reloader (not Universal).  Can the completed bullet drop through hole be plugged and the base ledge be filed away so a taper die can be used in that position and the bullet extracted out the side?  If it can be plugged, where do I get the plug or what do I use?

[CDRT]

Check the press schematics on this site.  There is a plug you can get.  It's part number 68U.  Also, before you put it in, remove the tapered bushing (part 67U) that is in the hole.  You might check with Star Machine Works for the part.  I hear he's up and running again.  I bought a plug from him a couple years ago. You might ask him if your modificaton will work since I'm not sure if a std base is machined the same as a Universal.

[rbwillnj]

Manuel,    I don't see why not, though I have never seen one where its been done.   

I have a few extra plugs that fit a Universal, but I think hole on a Progressive might be a different dimension.   The parts list shows #68 for the Progressive, and #68U for the Universal.   Since there are different part numbers, I assume there is a difference. The plugs for the Universal are 1.06" long and .749" diameter.  If the plug for a Progressive is different, I'm sure I could make one up, but I would need to know the dimensions.

[Manuel]

I'm at a standstill at the moment for this bullet drop through hole project.  I can't get the column shaft nut off (mighty tight!) so I can separate the steel floor base from the aluminum base and see if there is a bushing in there. From inspection with a strong light, it does not look like there is a bushing in there (or the seam is so well mated that I cannot appreciate it). 

Any disasembly hints for getting that nut loose or has anyone ever looked to see if there actually is a bushing in there?  The hole measures .605 inch using a veneer caliper that does not have proper edges for measuring inside a hole.

[NYKenn]

Have found the through screw on the nut to be either flat headed, or an allen key head.
I had the same problem freeing up the nut on an older machine with allen head, but should probably work same for flathead as long as screwdriver body was not round. Either one requires caution and patience.

You do not want to strip the head of the screw. Makes for a lot harder problem.

I used WD-40, took my time and was cautious. I applied WD-40 +/- every few hours as able for a couple of days.
Make sure the allen key or screwdriver is the right size with a tight fit, so you do not further damage or strip the head.
Once wet and soaked with WD-40, and rust and gunk is freed up, I was able to turn the key using a crescent wrench for leverage, but with caution so as not to strip it.
Good luck!

[rbwillnj]

Manuel,   Yes, its very tight.   When I remove the nut on the central shaft, I remove the tool head, but then I put the crankshaft assembly back on, secured with the taper pin.   They with suitable padding (like strips of heavy leather, I clamp head of the crank shaft assembly in a vice to keep the shaft from rotating while you loosen the nut.  In some cases, I have applied some heat to the nut with a propane torch, but usually it isn't necessary.

If there is a bushing, you should be able to hook it with a bent paper clip and pull it out from above.  Only if its held in place by oxidized grease is it necessary to remove the aluminum base to get at it.   If the hole has straight walls, there is no bushing.  If the walls of the hole are tapered inward, then a bushing is installed.

[Manuel]

The walls of the bullet drop hole appear straight and I am sure there is no bushing in it.  Thanks to everyone who helped.  I've learned a lot.

Manuel

[Rock]

rbwillnj, You say you have a few Parts for "68U" Shell floor Base Plug that fit
the universal. I'm looking to buy one for my universal. Please advise price and
if they are still available. Rock  buckhamman   at     comcast  dot   net

[rbwillnj]

Rock,  I sent you a PM