Leaving pdr in mag between loadings

[Star73]

How many of you do this? I have talked to shooters who say they never remove powder. I always do. I have experienced "caking or bridging" if left for just a few hrs. I have tried stirring it w/ the primer follower before resuming and still had the problem.

Ron

[NYKenn]

I suppose issues with powder will vary with conditions in the loading area. Damp, dry, or humid.
My area is dry and has good air circulation. As a result, I do not empty the powder all the time. If I am going to reload next day or two, I leave in. If more than that I empty back into same powder cannister.I do not mix batches or lots of powder, except when fininshing at the very end of a cannister. I then check throws and weights. As a habit though, I always check a few charges before I start anyway, for accuracy and consistency. When I use an adjustable bar, I check same after 100 or so rounds, as well as at thee end of lthe oading session. Usually always the same. One of the nicest things about the Star is consistent accuracy, a reason I like it!

[bummer7]

doesn't your hopper turn dark if you leave the powder in it for extended periods? 
-s

[gmmpa]

I agree to the effects of humidity.   I have loaded ammo in my Star for 25 years without problem.  I never remove the power in my large capacity reservoir unless I am changing out the charge bars.  I do try to keep the humidity between 50% and 60%.  I have a dehumidifier and a humidistat to monitor the environment in my basement reloading area. It is a better environment for my machine tools, guns, and reloading machines. High humidity would probably effect your power in the storage container as well as the power reservoir.  Perhaps your power is contaminated from the high humidity.

[rbwillnj]

I'm not a fanatic about it, but I do try to remove powder from the powder magazine when I'm done, especially from the machines that are set up for calibers I'm not planning on loading for a while.   

I load so much 45 ACP that the powder magazine for that machine is rarely emptied, but it doesn't sit in there very long either.  Any of the plastics I have used for powder tubes will get dark with prolonged exposure.   When it gets dark I just turn out a new one on the lathe.

[rbwillnj]

Absolutely

[bummer7]

for my education, when the tube starts turning dark, isn,t that a chemical reaction to the powder componants? likewise is there a reverse action to the powder itself ?

Can you expand on this topic?  I'm not sure I understand what a "reverse action" would be. 

[bummer7]

That I understand.  But getting back to the topic at hand, Is there a "reverse action" to return the color to original? 

[bummer7]

Nuts, I was hoping there was a way to reverse the discoloration or at least lighten it rather than replacing the tube.  I have seen some that were almost black after years of use with powder left inside.  Makes it tough to see how much powder you have on hand when reloading. 

[rbwillnj]

Actually, the Phelps machines originally came with glass tubes for their powder magazines.  I think they were of a Pyrex type, but were not marked Pyrex.   They were also nice because the bottom was held in place with a rubber grommet of sorts and could be easily removed so the tube could be washed.   They are however Very fragile!

[starman]

that is why they make powder drain and in the old days powder shut off so you could take the powder out with no problem. Years ago I did leave the powder in and I learn the hard way with the powder sticking togeather like clods.

[bummer7]

Either way, a powder drain or shutoff switch makes it easier to remove a full tube.  While I never kept powder in the hopper long enough to discolor the plastic, the tube seems to discolor itself even when used for a day or two. 

Every once in a while, I'll dust the inside of the tube and apply an anti-static cloth on the plastic to remove any static electricity.  It stays clean for a few days and powder won't stick to the inside tube. 

[45 ACP]

The Pyrex glass tubes are the way to go. You can still get them through chemical/lab suppply houses. Various lengths, 38mm I.D. Pete

[Star73]

Thanks for the responce(s)!

[NYKenn]

My one plastic tube has darkened. Then again the blue star paint has also faded. Pretty doesn't load, good equipment does. The other tube is metal, but both have the cap with riser that indicates volume as it rides on the powder. Part of my procedure is verify powder level each time I load primers. Never had an empty load.
One important point to ponder if leaving powder is the type of powder, or manufacturer. While powders are differant, if you do not have a good reloading procedure, you could inadvertently mix powder types or manufacturer resulting in a definite problem.
I use predominantly Bullseye in my Star for pistol loads. On my Dillon, (mostly rifle, one pistol caliber) I have the powder type, load, etc. all labeled on the tubes as a reminder whether powder is in them or not.