Inherited a star reloader

[z_e_n]

Hi, i just inherited a star reloader from my uncle, i hope you guys can help me figure out what year it was made and whats the model.
It has .45acp dies, autoindexer and case feeder. the linkages are worn out so i have to make new ones, other than that i surprised after all the abuse this machine went thru, everything else is in good condition. Also primer punch, primer punch spring and primer punch bushings are missing, can you help me where i could purchase this? or if you drawings i could make one, im here in the Philippines so finding parts here would be close to impossible. we have a machining shop so making the parts won't be a problem for me.
Any ideas for a case collator?




Also, i'll be using this reloader to reload .45acp for my revolver, i would need the primers to be fully seated (in different case brands), can i spring load the primer punch rocker arm so primer is always fully seated? not just seated to a specific depth. Thanks! 

[rbwillnj]

It's impossible to determine year of production, but based on the configuration of the powder slide cam, your machine was assembled in the mid-sixties or later.

In my experience, it has never been necessary to adjust the degree of primer insertion for different brands of brass.  

[fc60]

Greetings,

I recognize the indexer as made by MA Systems. I have the instruction sheet if you need one. MA Systems also have some parts left over.

There is someone on eBay that makes the primer punches and bushings. Do a search of completed items to locate this guy.

For case feeding, consider the "Free Loader". Someone on this list has cloned the original using hardware store items. Again, search the list for "freeloader" or "free loader"

Cheers,

Dave Wilson

[fc60]

Greetings,

The files are linked below...

http://home.comcast.net/~fc60net/ROTO_EASE/ROTO_0001.jpeg
http://home.comcast.net/~fc60net/ROTO_EASE/ROTO_0002.jpeg
http://home.comcast.net/~fc60net/ROTO_EASE/ROTO_0003.jpeg

Cheers,

Dave

[z_e_n]

Almost finished with my star. i hope you guys can help me with the following:

1) what is the safest depth of the primer i can seat? since i'm using the ammo for revolver shooting with lightened trigger action, i need the primers to be fully seated for a more reliable ignition.
2) how to do i properly adjust the bullet seating die?

Thanks! 


I made a diy case feeder which is controlled by a proximity switch. i've also recently installed a cctv camera so that i can visually check if every case has a powder charge. I've also had all the corroded parts hard chromed to put it back to its original tolerance.  I also used the lee powder funnel (can be seen in the background), it has a shut off valve so no messy removal of the powder.

[Kirk A]

If you're shooting a revolver with a substantially lightened (mainspring) trigger, then the answer may simply be "use Federal primers", or alternatively make the trigger heavier. Depth really shouldn't be an issue.

-Kirk

[brian_a_mcmillen]

Awesome setup....I do wish you didn't paint it Dillon blue though...

[tony barone]

When you reassembled your Star loader how did you manage to realign the steel floor base to the aluminum base as Star had a jig for that.

[rbwillnj]

Every Star Reloader I have disassembled had a steel pin in the base that lines up with a corresponding close fitting hole in the aluminum base.   Maybe the jig was used to drill the alignment hole for the pin.    The Phelps reloaders that I have disassembled have not had the alignment pin so care must be taken when reassembling.....but still not a very difficult task.

[z_e_n]

When you reassembled your Star loader how did you manage to realign the steel floor base to the aluminum base as Star had a jig for that.

Hi. I just aligned the steel base with the rocker arm slot on the aluminum base, then put the assembly on a lathe, locking the top side of the shaft in the chuck so i can tighten the nut, before tightening the nut, i slide the toolhead up and down to see if the dowel pin would slide smoothly in its steel base counterpart. I don't know if this is the correct procedure, but i've now been able to load ammunition without any alignment or timing problems. assembly only took me 5 minutes 

Is it really this hard to pull the crank shaft handle?  when i tried every station individually, it wasn't a problem, it only got hard when all the stations are working. i can do a maximum of 300 hours (around 35minutes) then my arms would get too tired.

[rbwillnj]

Maybe I misunderstood.   Did you remove the Column Shaft from the Steel Floor Base?   If so how?

How hard it is to pull the handle with a round in every station is pretty subjective.  To me it's not hard, though I have noticed that if I am loading with new Starline Brass it takes more effort.  The same brass once fired takes much less effort.  In my experience, most of the required effort comes from the sizing operation.   Make sure you don't have any Resistance when there is nothing in any station.  Bent dowel pins can cause problems.  There should not be any binding of the dowel pin in the shell plate or steel floor base.

[z_e_n]

Maybe I misunderstood.   Did you remove the Column Shaft from the Steel Floor Base?   If so how?

How hard it is to pull the handle with a round in every station is pretty subjective.  To me it's not hard, though I have noticed that if I am loading with new Starline Brass it takes more effort.  The same brass once fired takes much less effort.  In my experience, most of the required effort comes from the sizing operation.   Make sure you don't have any Resistance when there is nothing in any station.  Bent dowel pins can cause problems.  There should not be any binding of the dowel pin in the shell plate or steel floor base.

Clamped the column shaft on a lathe and used a big socket wrench to loosen the screw.

Without any shells, i can cycle the lever with 2 fingers. most of the effort comes from resizing, i've been thinking if it would be better if i deprimed and resized all the shells first in a lee single stage before using them in the star reloader. good idea or just a waste of time?

[tony barone]

I size and deprime on a dillon 550 with a case feeder and a u-die. It keeps the Star clean of any abrasive burnt powder residue.

[GeraldChainsaw]

u guys have to be joking,   what did u get the star for???,  if your going to use a diff brand for diff stages,  havn't u noticed all the stars out there are still running, even with a lot of rust there still running,  kinda says it all

[tony barone]

Since Star Machines are no longer being made I try to keep this one as pristine as possible even though I have loaded more than 200,000 rounds on it.