Hi everyone,
I would like to share instructions from two resources. If you do not have an original instruction booklet for your Star, please ask.
UPDATE: The website Manuals page has the instructions for viewing and downloading.http://www.starreloaders.com/manuals/manuals.html#downloads-- Starrel[/b]1. Star Machine Works of San Diego booklet instructions [excerpt]:[/b]
"DO NOT use gasoline or solvent on your shells. It makes them so dry that they may stick to the die and cause scratches. After your shells are clean and free of grit just before starting to reload, dip the tips of your fingers in hydrous lanolin and stir the shells. A very little lubrication will keep them from sticking.
Care of Star Progressive Loader
Keep all parts subject to wear, including cam that operates angle lever, slightly lubricated (except the powder carrier). Lubricate primer slide with small amount of dry graphite only. (Keep tubes clean and dry.)"
2. Handloader Magazine, Sept. - Oct. 1992, Trust Your StarIn 1992, Don Krout Jr. of Handloader Magazine interviewed Elard Mock Star Machine Works partner and head honcho at the final assembly bench for 57 years at that time. Elard was nephew of C. R. Peterson, inventor and Star company owner. There is no other authority with more direct experience on setup or maintenance. The article is available so please contact me. We don't have permission to reprint it here, but I will be happy to e-mail it... The article covers armoring the primer tube in addition to the excerpted maintenance recommendations portion I am sharing here:
[excerpt from the article]
"Maintain the Star progressive reloader properly, especially the primer slide and storage mechanism, and follow the rest of the operational and safety procedures outlined in the booklet accompanying the Star reloading machine.
In summary, almost the entire maintenance take-down sequence has the cleanup of the primer slide and punch as the final objective. The reciprocating motion of the primer slide tends to pack debris at the end of its slot next to the column shaft. If allowed to accumulate, it will restrict the primer slide travel; tend to bind up the mechanism; and worse yet, cause misalignment between the primer slide and primer, the awaiting brass cartridge case and the primer punch. A heavy-handed operator who ignores the binding resistance could cause damage to himself and his machine. Mr. Mock indicated there was a known case where a primer exploded at this station. Fortunately the explosion did not transfer its energy to the nearby column of primers in the primer tube. No injury resulted to the operator. The inherent design of the primer slide makes the adjacent magazine well shielded from the punch station, but the example makes an argument for good housekeeping of any powder spills at the next station. There's a two barreled moral here: keep the primer slot end and slide free of debris by regular inspection and maintenance, and when the machine tends to bind, stop and investigate the cause. Be gentle, never complacent that an overly sensitive primer couldn't happen to you.
Another important cleaning area is the hole in the steel base where the primer punch is housed. The mating cylindrical surface between the large diameter of the punch base and the floor base hole does wear if not kept reasonably clean and greased, but
no grease is to be on the actual punch (upper end) and its bushing. Grease must remain out of the proximity of the primer slide and its slot. Use dry graphite lube on the primer slide, slot, punch and bushing interfaces. Also, put a match-head-sized glob of grease under the large diameter base of the primer punch where it mates with the rocker arm. Aside from the underside of the thrust nut and the inner race of the shell plate, the only other location for grease is a small dab in the keyway slot at the top (left side) of the column shaft, before re-assembly of the tool head thereon.
There should be no oil or grease on the steel floor base or the steel ball detent, only graphite. The steel ball can be cleaned with a rag dampened in Shooter's Choice and well dried, do not soak it in solvent, just dampened. I tend to shy away from Hoppe's No. 9 for this job because of its oily base and residue. The powder slide tends to lube itself with graphite from the powder. Never allow solvent or oil around the powder slide area or the powder reservoir.
Keep an eye on the rocker arm screw. This tends to loosen up with use, causing wear on the rocker arm and poor primer seating. Late models (within the last four years) have a set screw to keep it tight. The simple remedy is to tighten it every once in a while.
The Hulme auto case feeder tends to get gummed up after long usage. I clean mine with Birchwood Casey's Gun Scrubber (off the machine), blow dry and relube with graphite.
Run a dry patch several times through the primer magazine tube and primer pick-up tube using the primer follower rod. This will keep the inner surfaces of the tubes clean, bright, and slick for friction free movement of the primers down the column.
That is all Mr. Mock has to say about maintenance. It seems complex, but is made simple when you understand why you are doing it."
3. Several additional maintenance suggestions...One member reminded me that graphite should be applied sparingly to provide a thin film and not a thick carpet. The "Trust Your Star" article did not provide guidance amounts. It is desired to have sufficient application to provide lubrication without excessive amounts interfering with the mechanism. One person recommends applying it generously and then puffing it lightly with compressed air to remove the excess. I use a soft makeup type brush to apply just enough without getting it on too thick. The brush allows the excess to be removed easily without making clouds of graphite dust.
A careful drop or two of 3-in-1 or similar oil in a few places helps before each reloading session. I place a drop in each lubrication hole (either side of the #57 Spring Anchor) on the #60 Crankshaft Bearing, on the left side of the tool head.
Dies are often overlooked in maintenance. It is important to clean and inspect the dies regularly. Once you set and adjust them, you will be tempted to leave them alone, don't. It is not necessary to remove the dies from the tool head to inspect or clean them. Remove the tool head and you will have all the access needed to look directly into the dies witha good light and magnifying glass if needed. The dies should be inspected after every 5K to 10K of use or more frequently if your particular bullet lube is very soft. The sizing/decapping die should be inspected and cleaned to assure the pin is not bent and there are no other signs of wear or scratches. The bullet seating die will collect lube and it should be cleaned regularly to avoid a build-up. The soft lubes tend to require more frequent cleaning. I use a cotton swab with mineral spirits to check for and remove accumulations. It is also a good idea to remove and inspect the seater plug and taper crimp dies collect an assortment of similar materials.
The brass parts on the Star are easy to clean with most commercial cleaners like Brasso (my favorite for serious tarnish), but the most gentle is all that should be required for maintenance and I do not recommend commercial cleaners for regular maintenance. If you have serious tarnish at your regular maintenance sessions, increase the frequency of maintenance. I recommend a non-toxic and easy to use solution of 1:1 white vinegar and water.
[White Vinegar Caution] Bring to a boil, then pour into a pan and soak the parts for a few minutes. An old tooth brush will help to scrub too. Be sure the parts are completely dry, then apply a small amount of car wax. Let dry and buff. Use the tooth brush to remove any wax in recesses or knurling. The wax leaves a great finish and helps prevent tarnish.
The blued and external exposed steel parts we handle while operating the press can benefit from a light application of silicone to remove oil, and fingerprints. A lint-free gun cloth or cotton t-shirt sprayed lightly with silicone spray also works great. I do not apply silicone to any parts directly in contact with primers or powders.
The wooden handle can dry out and should have some attention so I dampen a cloth in white vinegar
[White Vinegar Caution] and add a drop of lemon oil. The vinegar works as a cleaner and the lemon oil leaves a nice finish and smell behind. It does not take much to do the job and you don't want a slippery handle, although it will soak in when left overnight.
The powder magazine tube should never be left with powder stored in it. There are more than a few reasons, but safety is primary. Powder left in the magazine is not in an approved container and can absorb moisture and be subject to unintended spills when you are setting up the press for use. The second concern is that most powders attack the plastic tube materials, causing them to darken and stain. I remove the powder and clean off the plastic between uses.
When storing the press, I cover the press with an old pillow case. It prevents serious dust or debris from getting into the works, and allows for air circulation to prevent rust or corrosion.
A HELPFUL NOTE: White vinegar is acidic and removes blue from steel parts in a few minutes. If you plan to use white vinegar please do so only after removing parts from the press.-- Starrel[/b]
