new owner ... lots to learn

[Kirk A]

Attached are a close-up of the Star, and a wider shot of the workbench addition.

-Kirk

[rbwillnj]

Kirk,

I have encountered tool heads that were a bit tight, but it always turned out that there was a burr somewhere.   Sometimes on the Key in the head, or in the keyway in the shaft, but usually around the hole where the taper pin is inserted.    Try rolling a very fine file around the shaft in the area of the taper pin hole.  If you see a bright spot it indicates a high spot caused by the taper pin being inserted too forcefully.   Of course, I'm assuming your secondary head is a Star tool head.   My experiance with Phelps tool heads is that they are more likely to be loose than tight.

You might also try running a jewlers file down along the key in the tool head, and along the the keyway in the shaft.  We are not looking to remove metal, just locate burrs and remove if necessary.

Can you get the tool head on the shaft at all?  If so, how far?

[Kirk A]

Bruce,

When I invert this tight tool head, I can install it on the shaft and slip it down about 2/3 of its length. Then it will bind tight in an interference fit. In the normal upright orientation, it will not even start on the shaft. I think that a brake cylinder hone may remedy this, but I haven't found one in my local auto parts stores, and hadn't mail-ordered one yet. I don't believe that the tight portion extends up into the keyed region (which would definitely complicate the honing process). Thanks for the suggestions of bright/high spots, etc.

-Kirk

[rbwillnj]

Kirk,

I haven't used a cylinder hone since I rebuilt the engine (and brake cylinders) of my '66 Triumph Spitfire back in the 70's, but the cylinder hone just sounds kind of drastic to me.   It can remove a lot of metal very fast, and the keyway in the tool head would seam to complicate things.

You might try buffing the shaft to see if that helps.   You might also try some very fine lapping compound, 800 grit with plenty of oil...like lapping a 19ll slide onto a frame.   Lap then buff the shaft.   You can get the compound from Brownells. Don't use valve lapping compound, its way too course.  http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=4059/pid=1137/sku/_800_Lapping_Compound

Keep in mind that the top of the shaft gets worn the least.  Once you get past the tight spot the head will probably move freely the rest of the way.