Messages

1

Star Reloaders / Re: CHANCE TO BUY A 9MM TOOL HEAD

« on: December 31, 2011, 04:21:57 pm »

I have about 3 shell plates from Rich Daniels.  They are top notch.  Really well made and
hardened.  I am using his in 9mm,  44 Magnum and .223 for 38 SuperComp.
Shell plates and tool heads and dies are key components for the flexible Star Universal.
Happy Holidays Again to All... this time 2012!

BTW, this year I reloaded 5,400 9mm rounds, primarily using HP-38 as the propellant in 4.5g over
124g RN lead cast bullets.

I have run into a few recent cases that have had the primers crimped into them.
Not such a nice thing.  Depriming pins go CRACK....

Art in CT

2

Star Reloaders / Re: De-oLD TIME RELOADER

« on: June 25, 2011, 01:55:20 pm »

From what I understand he crafts them himself.

3

Star Reloaders / Re: Case kicker problem

« on: April 01, 2011, 02:26:17 pm »

The indexer and kicker are Beautiful things when they are set up correctly.
The only thing to be aware of are running out of primers, and cases that feed upside down. (this happens alot to me with 9MM Luger).

4

Star Reloaders / Re: Case kicker problem

« on: March 16, 2011, 06:48:20 pm »

A Point.....  there is a cam that comes with the case kicker....
It attaches to a post on the machine head.
The position in which you mount this cam on the post (up or down) has alot
to do with the timing of the ejection.  Try playing with that and see what happens.

Also you can actuate the kicker with a shell in it by hand by pronging the
trigger nib on the kicker.   Try that a few times.  I set up my kickers
by placing a loaded round in that last position and use my finger to
set off the eject.  You can see and feel then, by doing it this way, just
what is not right.

Using this method, a few weeks ago, I found for instance, that I was trying to actuate the .44 Mag rounds
way too early (the cam was).  The bullet tip was catching on the taper crimp die.
But by hand actuating the kicker just did not reproduce this.... Then it dawned on me
to look at the press working in slow motion.  That's when it showed up.

So first set the kicker to work by hand trigger.... then look elsewhere,
at the cam and its height on the post.

I hope this helps and does not confuse...?

5

Star Reloaders / Re: BEST WAY TO GO ON DIES

« on: March 16, 2011, 06:39:28 pm »

Daves's userid here on the forum is fc60

6

Star Reloaders / Re: Modifying 45 ACP seating Dies

« on: March 03, 2011, 12:43:35 pm »

Many target shooters want the 45 ACP LSWC to be seated by pressure on the shoulders vs the tip of the bullet.
The bullet head spaces on these shoulders in a tight chambered bullseye pistol barrel.
So the shoulders are the reference point for such seating.

As an aside... of ALL people... you are asking for PICTURES?   
Pot calling the kettle black??
Can you HEAR the laughter???

7

Star Reloaders / Re: Modifying 45 ACP seating Dies

« on: March 02, 2011, 08:07:09 pm »

Oddly enough, at present I have 3 45ACP perfection seaters.
All three appear at first blush to have been designed for RN, 230g bullets.
However, when I took one apart, there was a considerable amount of lead slag
that was HIDING the shoulder seating surface.
There was some much lead and lube, that the shoulder seating area was
hidden by the accumulation.

I cleaned this accumulation away with a dentist's tool and there you go...
shoulder seater was there all along.  Just hidden.  On all three.

Maybe I am lucky?  I shoot 100% LSWC's which I cast from a H&G #68 FB 6 banger mold.

8

Star Reloaders / Re: MOON OPERATION

« on: February 27, 2011, 07:52:07 am »

Art
CONFUSED
If the Indexer is bolted down on the #11 Aluminum base, why do you need the 380 case.. It shouldn't move (Moon base).......
Doc  -

Before you tighten down the two mounting screws or bolts, it moves around ALOT.
You also should have the unit PLUM.
The 380 Auto case is like having a third hand.  It keeps the MOON plum while you are tightening it down.
I will post a pic as soon as I have uploaded it to my web server.
Here you will see a picture of the 380 auto case stuck between the moon unit base and the
upper surface of my bench.  This keeps the MOON unit indexer perfectly plum and aligned
before you tighten it down and also let it stay in place after tightening the two bolts.

In addition, prior to useing the case, probably thru fault of my own, I did have a MOON unit
indexer begin to tilt outwards ever so slightly over a period of time.  The issue was that the mounting bolts were
not fully tightened or had loosened up.  So now I use lock washers in the securing process (under the bench).

I am sure many MOON unit users do not use the 380 Auto case trick.  However I found it
invaluable as a third hand while setting the indexer up and during adjustment and subsequent operation.

9

Star Reloaders / Re: MOON OPERATION

« on: February 26, 2011, 02:12:01 pm »

Yes, you install the indexer with the head in the down position.  I would have no powder or primers in the
loader during installation.  Make sure you have your correct wrenches all at the ready to adjust the upper
nuts for the roller.  As an aside, what I do with all of my Moon Units is to insert a spent 380 Auto case just
under the base of the Moon indexer.  This case is the perfect exact height to shim up the Moon Unit in
perfect plum while you adjust the upper arm nuts and bolts.  I then just leave that 380 Auto case there
as it keeps the unit from ever tipping out while you tighten the two front bolts or screws of the Moon Unit
base thru the base of the STAR and onto your mounting surface.

I have suggested to Ray, that he should perhaps add such a spacer to the Moon Unit base but the
commonly found 380 Auto case is a simple aid.

As for the cleaning, Yes I feel that once you have loaded 1000 rounds, it is time to take down the STAR,
blow and wipe out the fine powder and brass residue and graphite lube the primer slide, clean the index
ball and generally make sure the primer slide is clean and the primer die screw is tight.  Keeping the
STAR clean and tidy is a good thing.  I also put a dab of 30W oil in the two oil holes at top of the crank shaft
bearing, also put a tiny dab of white grease on the #49U Angle Cam where it touches the #48 Primer Slide Angle Lever.

I wipe down the main shaft and groove and lube it with some 30W oil and also the #65 Lower Link Pin and the #63 Links
where they connect to the #60 Crank Shaft arms.

The upper deck of the of the #12U Steel Floor Base is blown clean and wiped down to make sure any loose powder
is cleared.  I pay attention to the two rollers on the powder bar to make sure they are free wheeling and use some
fine oil to lube them.  I also check the detents on the #30 Powder Slide Cam to insure they are clean and cause the
powder bar to vibrate.

This is all good maintenance advice... and keeps your STAR in tip top shape as well as refreshing your skills in
take down and re-assembly.  The STAR, after a few of these 1K strip and cleans will reward you with countless hours and
rounds of excellent operation.

10

Star Reloaders / Re: MOON OPERATION

« on: February 26, 2011, 07:53:17 am »

There is a ROLLER at the top of the indexer which RIDES ATOP the machine head.
The machine head, when ascending touches the roller causing upward pressure on the arm,
which in turn, causes the index arm to move from left to right and push the case in the FULL LENGTH
station to the priming and belling station.

Just install it, quite simple and it works really well.
You may need to adjust the upper nut/bolt junction to expand or limit the index arm movement.
The taller = less movement, shorter = more movement.
You want you case to end up right above the primer belling station, not short of it or beyond it.

Once it is set up, it does not drift or require further adjustment other than take down during
machine head swaps and the typical 1000 round cleanup and dusting of the deck and dies.
I use an artist's brush and dust the slide mechanism with graphite for lubrication.
Seems to work well....

11

Star History / Re: Visit to Star Machine Works circa 1973

« on: February 25, 2011, 07:53:43 am »

Thanks for sharing this bit of information.... the perception that the reloader business was not the primary bread & butter for Star, as far as products and sales went is valuable.  Keep those Stars running!

12

Star Reloaders / Re: star {pure at heart)

« on: February 22, 2011, 03:20:07 pm »

Hi:
I have 4 STAR Universals in operation.
All of them have case kickers (Moon Unit).
I am not quite sure what you mean by "cutting out the last station"?

Pretty much all of my STARs have taper crimp dies in the last station other than the .38 Special press.
The Moon Unit case kicker works with all of them even with the case kicker installed.
You just have to adjust your taper crimp die such that it does not crush the jaws of the case kicker or bend them.

The case kicker requires you to have the #68U solid shell floor base plug installed vs the hollow drop thru/down plug.

13

Loading Data & Reloading Procedures / Re: .45 ACP Load Data

« on: February 19, 2011, 01:31:06 pm »

Right Bruce, with the lighter bullet you do need more powder, the recoil is less and the pistol may not cycle correctly.

Hummm... 4" barrel eh?  Without the ability to change recoil springs (are there various spring weights available for the XD 45?), then this somewhat limits you.

14

Star Reloaders / Re: .45 COLT DIE SET

« on: February 19, 2011, 11:08:53 am »

Glad to hear it. Dave does good work on these items.

15

Loading Data & Reloading Procedures / Re: .45 ACP Load Data

« on: February 19, 2011, 11:06:13 am »

Start with 3.4g of Bullseye and work your way up.  3.4 will be a powder puff BULLSEYE 10Xring accurate load all the way up to 3.8g.
What rate recoil spring do you have in your 1911?  With the above light load, you may have do drop down to a 13# recoil spring or even less.
You will know to do this if your spent shell gets caught in the ejection process or you start having the slide not stay open after the last round.
Watch where the cases drop... on these light loads, they sometime only gently flip up and over about 1 foot.

Do not load up loads of rounds at the low rates.

I would do 15 (3 5 shot groups) at 3.4,  3.5,  3.6,  3.7 and 3.8 and see from rest what works any cycles best.
Bring a few low weight recoil springs and bushing wrench with you to the range.

Use different targets for each load so you can analyze the results.