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Messages - rbwillnj

721
Star Reloaders / Re: Rifle machine, recent find
« on: January 15, 2011, 12:31:23 am »
Thanks for sharing!

722
Star Reloaders / Re: STEEL BALL
« on: January 14, 2011, 12:58:34 am »
It's a 1/2" steel ball.   .500"

723
Star Reloaders / Re: Shell plate removal
« on: January 08, 2011, 01:05:22 am »
Does the Shell Plate turn?  If so, there is nothing holding it in place except the close tolerance fit with the column.   Assuming it turns, just make sure you are pulling it straight up EVENLY (get your fingers under both sides and rock it slightly as you pull it up).   

If the Shell Plate does not turn, then you may have some hardened lubricant or rust holding it.   If it doesn't turn, soak it with Krol or WD 40 until you can get it to turn freely before trying to lift it off.

724
Star Reloaders / Re: Inherited a star reloader
« on: December 22, 2010, 09:15:40 am »
Maybe I misunderstood.   Did you remove the Column Shaft from the Steel Floor Base?   If so how?

How hard it is to pull the handle with a round in every station is pretty subjective.  To me it's not hard, though I have noticed that if I am loading with new Starline Brass it takes more effort.  The same brass once fired takes much less effort.  In my experience, most of the required effort comes from the sizing operation.   Make sure you don't have any Resistance when there is nothing in any station.  Bent dowel pins can cause problems.  There should not be any binding of the dowel pin in the shell plate or steel floor base.

725
Star Reloaders / Re: Inherited a star reloader
« on: December 21, 2010, 09:17:14 pm »
Every Star Reloader I have disassembled had a steel pin in the base that lines up with a corresponding close fitting hole in the aluminum base.   Maybe the jig was used to drill the alignment hole for the pin.    The Phelps reloaders that I have disassembled have not had the alignment pin so care must be taken when reassembling.....but still not a very difficult task.

726
Star Reloaders / Re: Rifle machine, recent find
« on: December 17, 2010, 10:04:09 pm »
More Pictures

727
Star Reloaders / Re: Rifle machine, recent find
« on: December 17, 2010, 10:02:58 pm »
More Pictures

728
Star Reloaders / Re: Rifle machine, recent find
« on: December 17, 2010, 10:01:06 pm »
Not mine, but here are some pictures of some Star Rifle Machines and Tool Heads.   I would have liked to own them, but the owner wanted far too much.

The first picture has two Star Rifle machines among other Stars, and a Phelps.

729
Star Reloaders / Re: Plug part number 68
« on: November 12, 2010, 10:58:33 pm »
The plug for the Progressive is smaller, and I'm not sure they are the same size for all progressives.

730
Star Reloaders / Re: Star Progressive Taper Crimp - 38 spl
« on: November 08, 2010, 12:44:35 pm »
dverna,

Assuming your friend has a Universal, and not a Progressive, I can supply you with the 67U which is needed when you taper crimp in the last station. Send me a PM if interested.  In the picture below, it's the bushing on the left.

Post style taper crimp dies can be hard to find, you might be better off having FC60 drill and tap the last station for an 11/16-24 Die which he can provide as well.

731
Star Reloaders / Re: Hello from a new Star Owner
« on: November 08, 2010, 08:07:10 am »
Hulme made a caliber specific top plate for 9mm.   It's easy to recognize, it is stamped 9M on top.

Here is a link to an old thread that shows pictures of the top plates for 9mm and .380.  
http://www.starreloaders.com/forum/index.php?topic=772.0

732
Star Reloaders / Re: new owner ... lots to learn
« on: November 03, 2010, 08:41:44 am »
Kirk,

I haven't used a cylinder hone since I rebuilt the engine (and brake cylinders) of my '66 Triumph Spitfire back in the 70's, but the cylinder hone just sounds kind of drastic to me.   It can remove a lot of metal very fast, and the keyway in the tool head would seam to complicate things.

You might try buffing the shaft to see if that helps.   You might also try some very fine lapping compound, 800 grit with plenty of oil...like lapping a 19ll slide onto a frame.   Lap then buff the shaft.   You can get the compound from Brownells. Don't use valve lapping compound, its way too course.  http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=4059/pid=1137/sku/_800_Lapping_Compound

Keep in mind that the top of the shaft gets worn the least.  Once you get past the tight spot the head will probably move freely the rest of the way.

733
Star Reloaders / Re: new owner ... lots to learn
« on: November 02, 2010, 10:26:13 pm »
Kirk,

I have encountered tool heads that were a bit tight, but it always turned out that there was a burr somewhere.   Sometimes on the Key in the head, or in the keyway in the shaft, but usually around the hole where the taper pin is inserted.    Try rolling a very fine file around the shaft in the area of the taper pin hole.  If you see a bright spot it indicates a high spot caused by the taper pin being inserted too forcefully.   Of course, I'm assuming your secondary head is a Star tool head.   My experiance with Phelps tool heads is that they are more likely to be loose than tight.

You might also try running a jewlers file down along the key in the tool head, and along the the keyway in the shaft.  We are not looking to remove metal, just locate burrs and remove if necessary.

Can you get the tool head on the shaft at all?  If so, how far?

734
Star Lubricator & Resizers / Re: LBT Blue-came from Cornville, AZ
« on: October 20, 2010, 12:51:32 am »
Is it these guys maybe?

http://www.lbtmoulds.com/

735
Stars Want to Sell/Want to Buy / WTS - New Primer Magazines
« on: October 18, 2010, 11:23:35 am »
The standard Star Primer Magazine is 13" long.  Star also made a 15 1/4" long version that easily holds 100 primers.  I produce replicas of both versions.   I also produce Primer Follower rods.   If you purchase a 15 1/4" version you will need a Primer Follower rod to match.

The price for Large or Small Primer Magazines in either length is $35 plus shipping.   Primer follower rods are $15 each.