Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - varmintpopper

Pages: « 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 »
256
Star Reloaders / Re: Primer Problems
« on: March 13, 2011, 05:43:19 pm »
1960

Not saying this will cure Your primer problem, but one of my machines started doing that once and I found A simple cure by running a cleaning patch soaked with a little Hops through the primer magazine tube, followed by a couple dry patches. I now make that a regular part of my maintenance.

Good Shooting

Lindy

257
Star Reloaders / Re: #74 Thrust Nut Clamping Screw
« on: March 06, 2011, 10:42:42 pm »
Doc
I had a problem of with the slots on the #74 clamping screws getting buggerd-up , went to the local Hardware store and picked up a 6-pack of Socket Cap Screws,
1/4"- 28 X 3/4 , ( $0.69 ) The head will not fit the the hole in the trust nut but its a simple thing to correct,  I chucked the screw into my drill press, took a file to
the head  of the screw and turned it down to fit the hole.  now I can  use an allen wrench to tighten the nut in place. Took about five minutes. works great !
That's My bit of trivia for today, hope it helps someone.

Good Shooting

Lindy

258
Star Reloaders / Re: ALUMINUM POWDER MEASURE
« on: March 03, 2011, 10:16:20 pm »
Anodizing, or anodising in British English, is an electrolytic passivation process used to increase the thickness of the natural oxide layer on the surface of metal parts. The process is called "anodizing" because the part to be treated forms the anode electrode of an electrical circuit. Anodizing increases corrosion resistance and wear resistance, and provides better adhesion for paint primers and glues than bare metal. Anodic films can also be used for a number of cosmetic effects, either with thick porous coatings that can absorb dyes or with thin transparent coatings that add interference effects to reflected light. Anodizing is also used to prevent galling of threaded components and to make dielectric films for electrolytic capacitors. Anodic films are most commonly applied to protect aluminium alloys, although processes also exist for titanium, zinc, magnesium, niobium, and tantalum. This process is not a useful treatment for iron or carbon steel because these metals exfoliate when oxidized; i.e., the iron oxide (also known as rust) forms by pits and flakes, these flakes both fall off as well as trap oxygen-bearing moisture, constantly exposing the underlying metal to corrosion.

Anodization changes the microscopic texture of the surface and changes the crystal structure of the metal near the surface. Thick coatings are normally porous, so a sealing process is often needed to achieve corrosion resistance. Anodized aluminium surfaces, for example, are harder than aluminium but have low to moderate wear resistance that can be improved with increasing thickness or by applying suitable sealing substances. Anodic films are generally much stronger and more adherent than most types of paint and metal plating, but also more brittle. This makes them less likely to crack and peel from aging and wear, but more susceptible to cracking from thermal stress.

259
Star Reloaders / Re: newest addition
« on: March 03, 2011, 07:32:11 pm »
angus6

The Lever sticking out there is part of a M-A Systems  ROTO EASE  Indexer.  And is the only part of the indexer that mounts on the star machine.
The rest of the Indexer mounts on the bench next to the star.  perhaps the PD still has the rest of the Indexer laying around somewhere , I think I would be asking !

Good Shooting

Lindy

260
Loading Data & Reloading Procedures / Re: How to set dies
« on: January 24, 2011, 07:07:10 pm »
tguntrader

Don't know how other folks do it, but I adjust my resizeing die down to almost touching the shell plate with mabey five thousands of an Inch clearance.
I'm thinking it may save some wear on both  the Die and Shell plate, It works for Me, but Others here may have different methods. 

Good Shooting

Lindy

261
Survey Says... / Re: 2011 Values and Prices
« on: January 05, 2011, 05:10:56 pm »
NYkenn
I suggest You continue without change,  I look forward to reading Your updates as it contains good info, and I'm sure Others would agree.  So as far as I'm concerned,,, continue to march.

Good Shooting

Lindy

262
Star Reloaders / Re: Press ID
« on: December 17, 2010, 11:11:29 am »
ANGUS6

Another plus for this machine is that it is drilled and tapped for a taper crimp die in the last station, which may be a handy thing to have if you need it. It appears to have considerable amount of rust but a little elbow grease will take care of that.

Good Shooting

Lindy

263
Star Reloaders / Re: Plug part number 68
« on: November 12, 2010, 09:53:05 pm »
Don

Are You saying that the plug for the progressive machine is of a different size than the Universal  machine ?
I don't own a progressive, but do have the dimensions for the 68U plug:  0.747 inches wide by 1.057 inches long,
made from round stock.  with a slight radius [no e-mail]@ .005'') on the bottom edge (rounded over) and the top edge left sharp.
The plug could be easily machined from 3/4 inch round stock.
Hope this helped.

Lindy

264
Star History / Re: Last two Stars Produced?
« on: March 28, 2010, 07:09:03 pm »
The last invoice that I recieved from star is dated Apr 2, 1993, and included a price list dated 1-1-93, it also included an Order Form that had a notation at the bottom of the form stateing that:  All prices F.O.B. Factory:
Send adequate amount for shipping with your remittance. California residents include sales tax.

Universal reloader........$925.00
Extra tool head.............345.00
Set of dies...................155.00

Lubricator & resizer with die and bullet punch...$157.50

Lindy

265
Star Reloaders / Re: Any interest in new star type reloader?
« on: December 29, 2009, 12:55:52 am »
MY 2 cents
I'd like to see someone manufacture the Star Reloader again, and perhaps  include as standard  the improvements that have been thought up over the years by the folks that reloaded with them. price kept within reason and the
quality as good or better. There should be  a good market out there. Put Me in line for one !

Something to think about:  Patent infringement.

Lindy



266
Exellent Idea !

Thanks for Shareing, Now To find a proper size Dowl in that junk yard of a reloading room,

Lindy

267
Star Reloaders / Re: Looking for Paul Jones, Star Loading enthusiast
« on: September 06, 2009, 11:13:15 pm »
Jacqueline
I sent you an e-mail with a telephone no. and e-mail addy for Paul Fitz Jones in volcano ca.
good luck
lindy

268
Star Reloaders / Re: Dies for the Star - Longevity by Brand?
« on: September 06, 2009, 07:49:34 pm »
I've Had two Star machines since the mid fifties, one with a Lyfetyme sizeing die and one with an unmarked
steel die of unknown manufacturer. the steel die began to scratch the outside of the cases and after polishing
a few times, began to size the case a bit oversize, I recently replaced the steel  die with a lyfetyme and now
everything is running smoothly again.  both machines reloaded about the same amount of loads over the years with no apparent wear on the Lyfetyme die, the steel die lasted more than 50 years so quess I shouldnt complain.

Lindy

269
Loading Data & Reloading Procedures / Re: Loading .380 with 9mm dies?
« on: August 30, 2009, 07:35:27 pm »
Wrong link ,, try this one

www.makarov.com/graphics/9mmcases.jpg

270
Loading Data & Reloading Procedures / Re: Loading .380 with 9mm dies?
« on: August 30, 2009, 07:21:30 pm »

  www.makarov.com/makfaq.htlm

The above site has some interesting info on reloading the various 9mm rounds including the .380.
in particular I would take a look at the "Case dimensions of various 9mm cartridges" as there are
at least six , some straight wall, some tapered and none of them are the same dimensions.

be carefull

lindy

Pages: « 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 »